SMT Repair & Rework: Desoldering & Component Fixes
Practical, component-level repair and rework guides for populated boards: how to desolder SMD and through-hole parts, replace failed capacitors, connectors, and USB/charging ports, and fix lifted pads or broken traces. Each guide covers the right tools, temperatures, and technique, and shows when a stencil plus hot air or reflow is the cleaner route for re-soldering SMD parts. Links up to JLCPCB's stencil and assembly resources so you can repair a board and reprint paste with confidence.
Latest Posts
SMT Repair & Rework
How to Replace an Electrolytic Capacitor Step by Step
Key Takeaways Match the spec, respect the polarity: Replace with the same capacitance, an equal-or-higher voltage rating, a 105 °C rating, and an equal-or-lower ESR — and remember that an aluminum electrolytic stripe marks the NEGATIVE terminal while a tantalum stripe marks the POSITIVE terminal. Diagnose before you desolder: Visual signs such as a domed top, opened vent, or leakage combine with electrical checks like rising ESR, low capacitance, or a dead short to confirm the fault, and one failed ca......
Oct 30, 2026
SMT Repair & Rework
How to Desolder SMD Components: A Step-by-Step Guide
Key Takeaways Molten joints before force: Every required solder joint must be fully liquid before the component is lifted, because pulling on a part with even one solid joint is the fastest way to rip a copper pad off the board. Match the method to the package: Use twin-iron or wide-tip heating for small chip parts, solder wick for flat pads and footprint cleanup, hot air for SOIC, QFP, and QFN multi-lead parts, and low-temperature removal alloy when you need extra working time or have no hot air. Flu......
Oct 26, 2026